Wednesday, January 20, 2010

"When you go to someone’s house, meat is the first thing you get."

, says Julia Jaksic, the chef at Employees Only, the West Village restaurant on whose late-night menu she has put an untraditional "Balkan burger" made with pork, fennel seeds and other aromatics. In today's NYT Food Section, pljeskavica and cevapcici are given quite a lot of space for extolling and for encouragement of the watering of one's mouth.

The articel is particularly refreshing as the writer has a solid take on the famed pronouncements delivered by folks of the Croatian/Serbian persuasion.   For countries of comparatively minor size (Bob Costas famously announced the winner of an Alpine event in the Winter Olympics a few years back as "Janica Kostelić, from the teeny-tiny country of Croatia"), it is truly amazing that statements of larger-than-life gravity are typically spoken.  But then, there is no country that can lay total ownership on chutzpah.

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